Surfing in Puerto

My brother Brad wanted a surf report. Yesterday afternoon was my first session. I surfed at the beach break straight down from our house (Zicatela beach break). The sets were 10'+. Big A Frame peaks, but some waves were not makeable. It reminded me of Hawaii with the warm water and the power of the waves. One of the sets ripped one of booties right off my foot (which I was able to recover from the beach later). I got a few fun waves, but it was pretty crowded and I was still getting warmed up. I had my second session this morning before our school. It was nice that the weather was still cool. I did much better in this session. It was only slightly smaller than yesterday afternoon, but I was very glad that I had my bigger board (thick 6'10" McCoy pintail). I got some fun waves. There was one big left that I took off on in which I barely had time to slip into the tube after my bottom turn. It was a solid 8' face and it pitched hard. My timing was slightly off so I did not make it out of the tube. On my last wave of the session, I took off another big left and pulled in. I got a fun tube on this one. I was not real deep, but I was in there. This was a good wave to end on, and my confidence is up a bit now. I did not have a lot of time to surf in the couple months before our trip so I feel like it is going to take me time to get in a groove. I think that I will probably end up surfing this spot on a lot of the mornings before our school. The early mornings and late afternoon seem to be the best times to surf in terms of overall conditions and tide.

This afternoon we are going to Punta Zicatela. This is the famous "Mexican Pipeline" spot, but the waves are "small" for this time of year. I think I will bring my smaller board (6'7" Cordell). Vamos a ver...

Chris